Entering the world of professional hairdressing is an exciting journey, and one of your most important investments will be your scissors—or as they're known in the industry, your shears. Unlike the scissors you might use around the house, hairdressing scissors are precision instruments designed for specific cutting techniques. Choosing the right pair can significantly impact your cutting quality, hand comfort, and career longevity.
When I started as a hairdressing apprentice over fifteen years ago, I was overwhelmed by the variety of scissors available and the price differences between them. I made some expensive mistakes before learning what really matters when selecting professional shears. This guide aims to give you that knowledge upfront, so you can make informed decisions from the start of your hairdressing journey.
Understanding Scissor Anatomy
Before diving into selection criteria, it's essential to understand the basic components of hairdressing scissors. Each part plays a crucial role in the scissors' performance and your cutting experience.
- Blades: The cutting surfaces, available in different lengths and edge types
- Tips: The blade points, which can be sharp or rounded for different techniques
- Pivot/Screw: The central connection point that holds blades together and controls tension
- Finger holes (bows): Where your fingers insert; come in various sizes and shapes
- Tang/Finger rest: The small hook extending from one handle for pinky support
- Bumper/Silencer: The cushion between handles that dampens impact
Professional hairdressers typically call their cutting tools "shears" rather than scissors. While the terms are often used interchangeably, "shears" specifically refers to haircutting instruments, while "scissors" is the broader term for any two-bladed cutting tool.
Types of Hairdressing Scissors
Professional hairdressers typically need several types of scissors in their kit, each designed for specific techniques. As a beginner, you'll want to start with the essentials and expand your collection as your skills develop.
Cutting Shears
Your primary cutting tool for all-over haircutting. Cutting shears typically range from 5 to 7 inches in length, with most hairdressers preferring 5.5 to 6 inches for versatility. These scissors feature long, straight blades designed for clean, precise cuts. Every hairdresser needs at least one quality pair of cutting shears.
Thinning Shears (Texturising Shears)
These scissors have one regular blade and one blade with teeth (or two toothed blades). They remove bulk from hair without changing the overall length, creating texture and movement. Thinning shears are classified by the number of teeth—more teeth means more subtle thinning. Beginners often start with 30-40 tooth models for controlled thinning.
Blending Shears
Similar to thinning shears but with wider-spaced teeth, blending shears create softer transitions between lengths. They're particularly useful for blending clipper cuts into scissor-cut sections or softening harsh lines.
As a beginning hairdresser, invest in one high-quality pair of 5.5" or 6" cutting shears. Add a pair of 30-40 tooth thinning shears once you're comfortable with basic cutting. Build your collection gradually as you develop specialised skills.
Choosing the Right Size
Scissor size, measured from tip to finger hole end, significantly affects cutting control and comfort. The ideal size depends on your hand size and cutting style.
Size Guide
- 5 - 5.5 inches: Ideal for detailed work, precision cutting, and smaller hands
- 5.5 - 6 inches: The most versatile range, suitable for most techniques and hand sizes
- 6 - 6.5 inches: Better for long hair cutting, barbering techniques, and larger hands
- 6.5 - 7+ inches: Primarily for barbering and cutting long sections
A simple sizing test: hold the scissors with your thumb and ring finger in the holes. The blade tips should extend just past your second knuckle. If they're much longer or shorter, try a different size.
Understanding Blade Edges
The blade edge type affects cutting feel, sharpness retention, and suitability for different techniques. Understanding these differences helps you choose scissors that match your cutting style.
Convex Edge
The sharpest edge type, ground to a razor-like finish. Convex edges slice through hair smoothly with minimal pressure, making them ideal for slide cutting, point cutting, and other advanced techniques. These blades require professional sharpening and more careful handling. Most Japanese scissors feature convex edges.
Bevelled Edge
A more traditional edge with a visible angled bevel on the blade. Bevelled edges are more durable and easier to maintain but require slightly more pressure to cut. They're suitable for basic blunt cutting and are more forgiving for beginners. German scissors typically feature bevelled edges.
Semi-Convex Edge
A hybrid combining elements of both edge types. Semi-convex edges offer good sharpness with improved durability compared to full convex edges. They're an excellent choice for beginners who want smooth cutting without the delicacy of pure convex blades.
Convex-edge scissors should never be sharpened with standard methods. They require professional sharpening with specialised equipment. Using incorrect sharpening techniques will damage the blade and void most warranties.
Handle Designs
Handle design affects comfort, hand position, and risk of repetitive strain injuries. Spending long hours cutting requires handles that support your natural hand position.
Common Handle Types
- Opposing (Even) Handles: Both handles are the same size and positioned symmetrically. Traditional design but can cause wrist strain with prolonged use.
- Offset Handles: Thumb handle is shorter and positioned lower than the finger handle. Allows a more natural hand position and reduces strain on the thumb.
- Crane Handles: An extreme offset where the thumb handle is dramatically lower. Maximum ergonomic benefit, ideal for those prone to repetitive strain injuries.
- Swivel Thumb: The thumb ring rotates freely, allowing natural thumb movement. Excellent for reducing strain but requires adaptation time.
Materials and Construction
The steel used in scissors determines sharpness, edge retention, and durability. Higher-quality materials command higher prices but offer superior performance and longevity.
Common Steel Types
- Japanese 440C Stainless Steel: Industry standard for professional scissors. Good hardness and edge retention.
- VG-10 Steel: Premium Japanese steel with excellent edge retention and corrosion resistance. Found in mid-to-high range scissors.
- Cobalt Alloy: Extremely hard steel that holds an edge exceptionally well. Higher price point but superior performance.
- Damascus Steel: Layered steel creating distinctive patterns. Combines aesthetics with excellent cutting performance.
- Start with one quality pair of 5.5"-6" cutting shears before buying accessories
- Try scissors in person before buying if possible—comfort is personal
- Invest in proper maintenance tools alongside your scissors
- Budget $150-400 for your first professional-quality pair
- Choose offset or crane handles for better ergonomics
- Semi-convex edges offer a good balance for learning
Caring for Your Investment
Quality hairdressing scissors represent a significant investment, and proper care dramatically extends their working life. Develop good habits from the start.
Clean your scissors after every use, wiping away hair and product residue with a soft cloth. Apply scissor oil to the pivot point daily or when the action feels stiff. Store your scissors in a protective case, never loose in a drawer or apron pocket where they can be damaged. Have your scissors professionally sharpened every 6-12 months, depending on usage. Never cut anything other than hair—even paper can damage precision edges.
Your hairdressing scissors will be with you throughout your career, evolving from tools into trusted partners in your craft. Taking the time to choose wisely and care for them properly is an investment in your professional success. For more detailed maintenance information, check out our guide on how to clean and maintain scissors.